Opening a box of dahlia tubers is the first step toward a garden full of blooms.
Inside that package are dormant plants that will soon grow into tall stems and armfuls of flowers. A few simple steps when your tubers arrive will help ensure they stay healthy until it’s time to plant.
Step One: Open Your Package Right Away
As soon as your tubers arrive, open the package and inspect them.
Dahlia tubers are living plant material and should not sit in a closed box for extended periods. Opening the box allows airflow and gives you the opportunity to check that everything arrived safely.
Take a moment to confirm the varieties in your order and look over the tubers.
If you’re unsure what a healthy tuber should look like, visit our guide on how to inspect dahlia tubers when they arrive.
Step Two: Check the Condition of Your Tubers
Dahlia tubers come in many shapes and sizes, and they rarely look perfect.
Some may be long and thin, others short and chunky. Slight wrinkles or cosmetic scars from the dividing process are completely normal.
Remember — dahlia tubers are not beauty queens.
What matters most is that the tuber has:
• a visible eye
• an intact neck
• a firm tuber body
If a tuber feels extremely soft, mushy, or completely dried out, contact the farm where you purchased it and include a photo along with your order number.
Step 3: If It’s Not Time to Plant — Let’s Talk Storage
Most dahlia tubers are shipped in early spring, which means they often arrive before planting season has fully begun in many climates.
So the big question becomes:
Can you plant them now, or do they need to rest a little longer?
The most important rule is simple:
Dahlia tubers cannot freeze.
If they freeze, the internal cells rupture and the tuber will turn soft and mushy. For that reason, dahlias should only be planted after your last frost date, when soil temperatures have begun to warm. I usually keep an eye on the weather and if the forecast looks good I will plant earlier.
A quick search for “last frost date + your zip code” will usually give you a good estimate for your area.
Even once frost risk has passed, it’s still wise to avoid planting during extended periods of cold, wet weather, as overly saturated soil can cause tubers to rot before they sprout.
If planting time is still a few weeks away, proper storage becomes important.
Long-Term Storage (More Than a Few Weeks)
If you need to hold your tubers for a while, aim to create something close to root-cellar conditions.
Ideal storage conditions are:
Temperature: 40–50°F
Humidity: moderate to high (around 70–90%)
Environment: stable and protected from freezing
Many growers store tubers in breathable containers with a medium such as vermiculite, peat, or wood shavings to help regulate moisture. Vermiculite is my go-to, becareful with peat - it can be too moist, or with wood shavings as they can dry them out.
On our farm, we often use simple plastic storage bins with ventilation holes and store tubers in vermiculite. Before we had more controlled storage, a garage worked just fine — as long as temperatures stayed above freezing.
The key is consistency.
Storage that is too wet can lead to mold or rot, while storage that is too dry can cause desiccation.
A little wrinkling is normal. Tubers don’t need to look perfect — just avoid letting them dry out completely.
Short-Term Storage (A Few Weeks or Less)
If planting time is close, storage becomes much simpler.
Tubers can be kept in a cool room, basement, or other protected space until outdoor conditions are right.
Some growers also store tubers slightly warmer (around 55–60°F) to encourage them to wake up and begin forming eyes before planting.
The most important habit during this period is simply to check on them occasionally.
Make sure they are not becoming overly damp or excessively dry.
A Note on Potting Up
Some growers choose to pot up tubers indoors to get a head start on the season or to take cuttings later.
This can encourage earlier root development and faster growth once planted outside.
However, moisture management becomes important. Dahlia tubers are prone to rot if kept too wet, and newly emerging growth can be damaged by frost.
If you choose to pot up, be sure plants are not moved outdoors until all danger of frost has passed.
A Quick Reminder
Once tubers have been planted, potted, or placed into growing medium, they are considered actively growing plants and are typically no longer eligible for replacement under most farm policies.
For this reason, inspecting tubers and confirming their condition before planting is always recommended.
Step Four: Don’t Plant Too Early
Dahlias should only be planted after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has begun to warm.
Planting too early, especially in cold or saturated soil, can cause tubers to rot before they have a chance to sprout.
In most climates, planting typically happens in mid to late spring, once nighttime temperatures are consistently above freezing.
Be sure to keep a look out for rain in the forecast - if there is an abnormally excessive amount of rain, hold off until after that passes too.
Step Five: Be Patient With the Process
Dahlia tubers can take a little time to wake up once planted.
What may look like an unremarkable root today will soon grow into a tall plant filled with blooms that last from midsummer until frost.
Gardening is a process of patience and trust — and with a little care now, your dahlias will reward you later in the season.
